ACNE-PRONE SKIN: BALANCE AND GENTLENESS IN YOUR DAILY ROUTINE

ACNE-PRONE SKIN: CAUSES AND FALSE MYTHS

Having acne-prone skin, with blemishes, enlarged pores and a shiny appearance, is a very common condition in adolescence, but not only. The main causes of acne are associated with three concomitant factors:

excessive sebum production that remains in the pores, becoming a breeding ground for bacterial proliferation
hyperkeratinisation, i.e. abnormal thickening of the stratum corneum leading to pore obstruction
imbalance of the skin microbiota with bacterial proliferation, especially of Cutibacterium acnes, a microorganism that stimulates an inflammatory response in the skin.

This leads to the formation of comedones – open or closed (blackheads or whiteheads) – and, in some cases, pimples, papules and pustules, i.e. the inflamed elements of acne. Since hormones regulate the activity of the sebaceous glands, acne-prone skin is typical of puberty and is more prevalent in males; however, it can also occur in adulthood, especially in females.

It is not true that foods such as salami and chocolate cause spots, but it is true that healthy gut flora, i.e. microbiota, also has a positive effect on skin microbiota and skin health. Another myth to dispel is that the sun makes spots go away: the improvement is only temporary, and in fact, exposing yourself to the sun without adequate protection can make the situation worse.

HOW TO CARE FOR ACNE-PRONE SKIN

Choosing specific products and using them in your daily skincare routine can help effectively combat blackheads and spots. Together with cleansers, treatments specially formulated for acne-prone skin act on the factors underlying imperfections: excess sebum, blocked and enlarged pores, and Cutibacterium acnes, while also reducing shine and redness.

Bionike products for acne-prone skin care

SPECIFIC CLEANSING

It is important to choose gentle cleansers with sebum-regulating action, capable of controlling excess sebum and skin microbiota without irritating or excessively drying the skin. It is equally important not to overdo cleansing: twice a day, morning and evening, is ideal. If you have numerous blackheads, you can use cleansers with microgranules as the light exfoliating effect helps to reduce skin thickening and purify the skin.

If the symptoms affect the body as well as the face, you can opt for a single cleansing formula, provided it is specific. If, on the other hand, pimples and redness prevail, it is better to choose a gentle formula to massage onto the face, also to remove any make-up.

CUSTOMISED TREATMENT: COMEDONIC/INFLAMMATORY SYMPTOMS

Squeezing blackheads or spots is a bad habit: it can increase inflammation and leave scars. It is much better to apply a specific treatment after cleansing, chosen according to the condition of the skin and the acne symptoms.

If blackheads are prevalent, you need to ‘normalise’ your skin condition by reducing sebum and thickening and rebalancing the skin's microbiota. In the case of many reddened blemishes and spots, targeted action is needed on Cutibacterium acnes and its pro-inflammatory effects, which is also useful for reducing residual marks and small spots/discolouration.

Occasionally, and especially if there are many blocked pores/comedones, a product formulated with a moderate concentration of alpha hydroxy acids and pH-regulated can be used to achieve a peeling effect.

HYDRATION FOR ACNE-PRONE SKIN: WHEN AND WHY

Acne-prone skin is also defined as impure because it is oily, but this does not mean that it does not need to be moisturised. This aspect is even more important in the case of dermatological therapies and treatments such as laser and peeling, which can cause extreme dryness and flaking of the skin. It is essential that the moisturising product is specific in terms of both its formula, which should be rich in moisturising and repairing ingredients, and its sensory properties, as a light, rapidly absorbed texture is ideal.

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS FOR ACNE-PRONE SKIN:

The active ingredients used in cosmetic formulas for acne-prone skin vary, especially in the field of sebum regulators. However, some active ingredients are recommended by dermatological practice and have a solid scientific basis for use on acne-prone skin. These include azelaic acid, substances from the retinoid family and alpha hydroxy acids.

ACIDO AZELAICO

L’Acido Azelaico è un attivo molto noto per il trattamento dell’acne anche perché molto ben tollerato dalla pelle ed efficace su fototipi chiari e scuri. Ha la prerogativa di essere un attivo multifunzionale e quindi antibatterico, cheratolitico, oltre che lenitivo dello stato infiammatorio e preventivo delle iper-pigmentazioni, macchie scure spesso visibili come segni post-acne.

RETINOIDI

Gli attivi cosmetici della famiglia dei retinoidi, come il retinolo o l’idrossipinacolone retinoato, sono ingredienti efficaci nella pelle a tendenza acneica in quanto promuovono il rinnovamento epidermico, riducendo quindi l’ispessimento cutaneo, l’ostruzione dei pori e creando un ambiente ostile alla proliferazione del C.acnes.

ALFA-IDROSSIACIDI - SEBOREGOLATORI – RIEQUILIBRANTI DEL MICROBIOTA CUTANEO

Questi tre tipologie di ingredienti sono spesso inseriti nelle formule per pelle a tendenza acneica quali coadiuvanti normalizzanti: gli alfa-idrossiacidi (AHA) come ad esempio l’acido glicolico, sono utili per ridurre l’ipercheratinizzazione; attivi con effetti sulla secrezione sebacea, come l’estratto da Bixa orellana, riducono la seborrea; gli ingredienti in grado di ristabilire l’equilibrio del microbiota cutaneo consentono di contrastare la proliferazione di C.acnes e la conseguente infiammazione mediante meccanismi fisiologici.

TESTED NON-COMEDOGENIC PRODUCTS

In modern cosmetics, it makes less and less sense to talk about ingredients with comedogenic properties because even those few that were apparently found to have such properties many years ago were studied for their comedogenic effect using obsolete methods and as they were, i.e. used 100% on the skin, without considering that none of them are ever applied in this way. It is better to test the formula by verifying the absence of comedogenic properties on volunteers with combination/oily skin or by simulating real conditions of use by consumers with skin prone to the formation of comedones.

GUIDE TO CHOOSING AKNET PRODUCTS

AKNET by BioNike is a complete line of cleansers and adjuvant treatments formulated for acne-prone skin.

The line is completed by a peeling in practical wipes, a sunscreen specifically for acne-prone skin with very high protection (SPF 50+) and a food supplement based on selected probiotics and biotin, AKNET PRO> SKIN, which contributes to skin wellness by rebalancing the intestinal microbiota.

For a specially formulated make-up, AKNET COMFORT COVER is also available.

MILD ACNE - DERMOCONTROL

Formulated as a daily maintenance treatment, ideal for acne-prone skin in teenagers and adults. With Dermobiotic System, a complex of glycolic, succinic and shikimic acids, and extracts of noni and bixa orellana, which regulate sebum production, exfoliate and rebalance the skin's microbiota. Applied morning and evening, it has a comprehensive corrective action, combating skin imperfections and limiting their reappearance.

MODERATE ACNE - AZELIKE PLUS

Intensive treatment is designed to act on the symptoms of acne-prone skin and any residual marks, even in adulthood. It is a gel formula enhanced by the combination of azelaic acid, new-generation retinoid (HPR) and alpha hydroxy acids. These active ingredients, with keratolytic, bacteriostatic and sebum-normalising properties, help to combat the formation and development of comedones (whiteheads and blackheads) and hinder the proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes, preventing its pro-inflammatory effects. Ideal for application once a day, preferably in the evening, followed by AKNET HYDRA PLUS Restorative Treatment in the morning.

MODERATE ACNE - HYDRA PLUS

Specifically formulated to strengthen and soothe extremely dry and fragile skin, especially when related to acne treatments. Contains Skin Support System, a combination of hyaluronic acid and slow-release serine, for intense and prolonged hydration, combined with centella and ceramide NG to promote physiological epidermal repair. Nourishing and moisturising, it provides comfort, making it the ideal complement to use to compensate for skin dryness caused by drug therapies and dermatological treatments such as lasers and peels.

WHAT TO DO AND WHAT NOT TO DO IF YOU HAVE ACNE-PRONE SKIN

In your lifestyle, it is certainly important to make healthy choices to reduce skin inflammation. Certain factors, such as smoking and stress, can contribute to the appearance of spots and blackheads, i.e. they worsen acne. Although there is no direct correlation between diet and acne, a balanced diet, rich in vegetables and with the right amount of whole grains, legumes and fruit, is also important for preventing intestinal dysbiosis and therefore helps to keep your skin healthier. According to the latest research, healthy intestinal flora has a positive effect on acne-prone skin.
Then there are gestures and habits that should be avoided:

aggressive cleansers and excessive use of exfoliating products and scrubs, as well as rubbing too vigorously;
non-specific facial make-up products; it is better to choose a foundation for oily skin that has been tested as non-comedogenic, and to take care to remove make-up thoroughly in the evening;
touching and, even worse, squeezing blackheads and spots; this risks increasing inflammation and leaving permanent scars;
be tempted by ‘do-it-yourself’ remedies, such as the classic use of toothpaste, which can only make the situation worse.

ACNE-PRONE SKIN: BALANCE AND GENTLENESS IN YOUR DAILY ROUTINE

HOW TO CARE FOR ACNE-PRONE SKIN