HYALURONIC ACID: PROPERTIES AND BENEFITS
Contents6 min read
WHAT IS HYALURONIC ACID AND HOW DOES IT WORK?
Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide belonging to the glycosaminoglycan (GAG) family; it is therefore a polymer composed of a long sequence of two simple sugars, glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine. It is naturally present in various tissues of our body, such as the joints and the skin, where it is the main component of the extracellular matrix (ECM) of the dermis: the complex three-dimensional network that surrounds and supports the cells, the fibroblasts.
Its most interesting characteristic is its extraordinary ability to bind up to 1,000 times its weight in water, acting like a sponge-like molecule that imparts firmness, suppleness and elasticity whilst maintaining an adequately hydrated environment. It is no coincidence that hyaluronic acid is often described as a veritable water reservoir for the skin. Furthermore, it plays an important role in the physiological processes of epidermal renewal and repair, so much so that it is also synthesised by keratinocytes.
With age, the synthesis of hyaluronic acid gradually decreases in both the fibroblasts of the dermis and the keratinocytes (epidermis). For this reason, incorporating it into one’s daily skincare routine can be a successful cosmetic strategy to combat dehydration, improve the skin’s appearance and, in the long term, prevent the signs of ageing.
Its most interesting characteristic is its extraordinary ability to bind up to 1,000 times its weight in water, acting like a sponge-like molecule that imparts firmness, suppleness and elasticity whilst maintaining an adequately hydrated environment. It is no coincidence that hyaluronic acid is often described as a veritable water reservoir for the skin. Furthermore, it plays an important role in the physiological processes of epidermal renewal and repair, so much so that it is also synthesised by keratinocytes.
With age, the synthesis of hyaluronic acid gradually decreases in both the fibroblasts of the dermis and the keratinocytes (epidermis). For this reason, incorporating it into one’s daily skincare routine can be a successful cosmetic strategy to combat dehydration, improve the skin’s appearance and, in the long term, prevent the signs of ageing.
MOLECULAR WEIGHT AND PROPERTIES OF HYALURONIC ACID
Not all hyaluronic acid is the same! The factor that influences its functional properties is its molecular weight – in other words, the size of the molecules that make it up.
Thanks to modern production methods – namely biotechnology – this valuable biopolymer is used in cosmetics at various molecular weights:
Thanks to modern production methods – namely biotechnology – this valuable biopolymer is used in cosmetics at various molecular weights:
- High-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid: acts mainly on the skin’s surface, forming a moisturising film that helps to limit water loss and makes the skin immediately softer and smoother.
- Medium/low molecular weight hyaluronic acid: thanks to its smaller size, it can penetrate the layers of the epidermis, providing moisturising and plumping effects.
- Ultra-low molecular weight hyaluronic acid: particularly small fragments that are able to penetrate deep into the layers of the epidermis, improving the skin’s firmness and elasticity.
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Multi-molecular hyaluronic acid and ectoine work in synergy: they strengthen the skin’s natural moisture barrier by forming a protective ‘moisture shell’ around the cells, which retains water whilst adapting to environmental conditions and protects against all kinds of external stressors.
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